Serging is a technique used to avoid unraveling fabric and will give your material a professional finish. Sergers can hem and finish your garment, create seam allowances, trim excess thread off finished edges, or take up slack in seams before stitching them down.
The Innovation Lab here at Hale Library houses two different serger machines. While both machines share similarities, this guide aims to outline their differences while providing comprehensive guidelines for their operation. Happy creating!
Threading a serger is more complex than threading a regular sewing machine. Here are a couple videos to help you through the process on the Brother machine.
1. Thread tree |
16. Upperlooper thread tension dial |
2. Handle |
17. Lowerlooper thread tension dial |
3. Presser foot pressure adjustment screw |
18. Front cover |
4. Spool pin |
19. Material slide plate (for overlock stitch) |
5. Spool support |
20. Main power switch and light switch |
6. Thread take-up cover |
21. Stitch length adjustment dial |
7. Needles |
22. Differential feed ratio adjustment lever |
8. Upper Knife |
23. Lowerlooper threading lever |
9. Presser foot |
24. Stitch finger |
10. Material plate cover |
25. Stitch width lever |
11. Spool stand (thread tree support) |
26. Upperlooper |
12. Left needle thread tension dial |
27. Lowerlooper |
13. Right needle thread tension dial |
28. Free-arm cover |
14. Presser foot lifting lever |
29. Bed extension |
15. Hand wheel |
30. Knife lever |
There is a paper manual for the Brother 1034D located next to the machine.
Threading a serger is more complex than threading a regular sewing machine. Here are a couple videos to help you through the process on the Baby Lock machine.
1. Needle threader selector |
16. Machine lock button release lever |
2. Presser foot lifter/thread release lever* |
17. Machine lock button |
3. Thread cutter |
18. Looper threading lever |
4. Needle threader lever |
19. Differential feed adjusting lever |
5. Needle height viewing area |
20. Handwheel |
6. Needle clamp screw |
21. Lower looper threading port |
7. Snap-on presser foot |
22. Power switch |
8. Throat plate |
23. Looper threader selector |
9. Stitch width adjusting dial |
24. Accessory compartment |
10. Cutting blade cover |
25. Upper looper threading port |
11. Cutting blade lock switch |
26. Carrying handle |
12. Stitch length/rolled hem adjusting dial |
27. Telescopic thread guide |
13. Needle drop drawer |
28. Presser foot pressure adjusting screw |
14. Subsidiary looper |
29. Stitch selector |
15. Front cover |
30. Looper thread fine-tuning screw |
* Raising the presser foot releases all threads
There is a paper manual for the Baby Lock Imagine BLE1AT located next to the machine.
Choosing the right thread for a project is considered by many to be the most important part. Typically, it's recommended to but the best quality thread you can afford. The low strength of cheaper threads makes lint and fuzz build up faster which isn't good for your machine. They are also much more prone to breakage. Serger thread is finer than standard sewing machine thread to avoid bunching and bulky seams.
Polyester is the most widely used type of thread of thread sergers due to its strength, durability, and flexibility. Different types of thread, such as nylon, cotton, wooly nylon, and other types can also be used for other projects. Though this can be overwhelming, the most important thing is to use high quality. Past that, it's personal preference!
DO use the tie-off method when changing thread colors
Changing colors can be such a hassle if you rethread every thread every single time. The tie-off method is where you cut each of your existing threads and instead of removing them just tie the next color to the end and pull it through the machine. Here is a link to a video demonstrating the process.
DON'T sew over pins
While you should never do this on any machine, it is especially important not to keep this in mind while serging because the machine moves so quickly and with such force it becomes dangerous if a pin goes through the machine.
DO use high quality threads
Lower quality threads will break very easily. Because the machine is moving so quickly it is a problem when lower quality threads are used, they often break and leave more fuzz than a higher quality.
DON'T serge at an unsteady pace
When you change speeds often, slow to fast to slow to fast, the stitching won't come out as even and tension will be much less even.
DO keep in mind rules of general sewing
Serging stems from the basics of sewing. Be sure to keep the do's and don't's from the last page so that your experience with serging can be as seamless as possible.
DON'T pull too hard on the fabric
Whether from the front or the back, make sure to avoid pulling hard on ths fabric. This can cause the needles to hit and mess up the project you're working on.